Planet slot

SCX Porsche GT3 Cup Michelin & Aston Martin Vantage

2010-09-08T15:48:17+00:00

Porsche GT3 Cup Michelin Ref: 64680

September 2010

The English racing driver Matthew Marsh drove this Porsche 911 GT3 Cup during Mobil 1 Supercup in 2006. The main detail we can notice on this car's decoration is the famous Michelin Bibendum that stands out nicely. Again, another nice decoration by SCX.

Aston Martin Vantage N24 Ref: 64530

September 2010

This Aston Martin Vantage N24 participated in the Aston Martin Asia Cup in 2006 and driven by Turku Hamman. The shape of this Aston Martin is just perfect as it makes it very easy to drive when you compete in GT races on your SCX tracks.

Tuff Ones

2010-09-08T13:41:13+00:00

Can the tuff ones chassis be used to run the tjet shinny class.They have the wider axles and I have a few to work with. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Bart(strommy)

Spirit VW Golf, feedback & tuning tips?

2010-09-08T11:14:48+00:00

Hi All, I am building a Spirit VW Golf for a rally proxy, and I am just looking for any feedback that you may have on the car and of course any tuning tips!

Thanks in advance,

Steve

Best Way to Cut/Trim Scaley Borders

2010-09-08T09:49:14+00:00

I do not have enough space between my adjacent Scalextric tracks for complete borders in a few places.
I think they will melt if I use a belt sander.
What is the best way to cut/trim the borders?

Bibendum volant

2010-09-08T09:18:18+00:00

http://www.youtube.com/v/W3n5cUaG5fg

Message: http://folm.xooit.com/t8086-Bibendum-volant.htm

plastic primer question

2010-09-08T07:54:21+00:00

My model shop only has liquid plastic primer, can I apply this with a brush or is it meant for airbrush , and would the result be as good as a can? Its going on to a hornby GT40 white plastic kit.

Le Mans info needed

2010-09-08T07:44:25+00:00

Does anyone have nice pictures or info on the le mans track in the late 60's to post or PM me, im modeling it in 1:32 wood. please & thank you.

Making a Ninco 1 Mustang with stock motor go faster. Low RPM tuning.

2010-09-08T07:20:59+00:00

This time I have decided to tie my both hands behind my back and give myself a greater limitation just to see how big a difference those fancy parts from different manufacturers make.

Limitation :

1) Stock Motor

Goals:
1) Weight reduction
2) Friction reduction

Parts: (3/32")

Sloting Plus 50mm hollow axle in front
Sloting Plus 55mm hollow axle in rear
Ninco 15" Prorace wheels in front
Ninco 17" Prorace wheels in rear
Avant Slot 27z inline crown
Stock 9z plastic pinion
NSR 19 x 10 no friction tyres in front
Ninco stock tyres in rear
Stock Magnet.
Sloting Plus double flange ball bearings in the rear.

Trial and error:
Stock times were 5.7s per lap for our 18m track. 0.1s faster than our stock Ninco 1 Megane.

A) 3.0 gear ratio was the best for our motor and track. Experiment with the different ratios for your track. It took a whole load off the 16k low torque motor and improved acceleration.

B) Ball bearings reduced friction greatly

C) Weight reduction with lighter hollow axles. ( Might not see anything significant when used alone, but when combined with other mods may add up to faster lap times ). Takes more load off motor too.

D) Zero friction front tyres were used. Saw a 0.1s reduction in lap time.

E) Less rolling resistance with metal rims, as plastic rims can warp under pressure.

Dead Ends:
A) Tried reducing magnet force, with a thinner weaker Ninco magnet. Handling suffered, resulting in slower lap times.
B) Tripoding only works if the nose of your car is not too heavy. The Mustang's nose is heavier than the Megane's.
C) Adding weight to improve cornering slowed the car more in lap times.

Result:
Fastest Lap time of 5.2 sec/lap. A half second per lap improvement. In a 100 lap race, that's 50 seconds off your total time. A small difference adds up to something more significant in the long run.

Cheers Happy Modding

Neu im Shop: Mega-G Rolling Chassis und Schleifer

2010-09-08T06:06:36+00:00

Ab sofort sind im Shop neue Artikel erhältlich:

Mega-G Rolling Chassis 1.7″
Mega-G Rolling Chassis 1.5″
3er-Pack Schleifer für Mega-G 1.7″
3er-Pack Schleifer für Mega-G 1.5″

Tomy AFX Chassis und Ersatzteile

Neues auch vom Odenwaldring

2010-09-08T06:04:01+00:00

Formel 1 auf dem Odenwaldring

Auch auf dem Odenwaldring geht es – nach einer längeren Pause – weiter. Die neuesten Bilder sind in der Galerie.

Hier gehts zur Galerie vom Odenwaldring

Toujours à 12 en 2011 ?

2010-09-08T05:50:11+00:00

Il n'y aura sûrement pas de 13e écurie dans les paddocks la saison prochaine. Echaudée par le flop USF1 et les performances très limitées des teams Lotus, Virgin et HRT cette année, la FIA devrait profiter du Conseil mondial programmé ce mercredi pour rendre officielle la nouvelle. Les projets du tandem Villeneuve-Durango et du duo Epsilon-Euskadi seraient trop bancals en terme de budget pour prétendre à un tel sésame.

Spurmarkierung für den Holzbahnring

2010-09-08T05:36:58+00:00

Spurmarkierung auf dem Holzbahnring

Martin hat für seinen Holzbahnring eine äusserst attraktive Variante zur Spurmarkierung gefunden: Fluoreszierende Folie mit einer Breite von 2.5 mm.

Spurmarkierung auf dem Holzbahnring

Der nächtliche Holzbahnring-Himmel wird von UV-LEDs gemischt mit diffusen blauen LEDs erleuchtet. So ist die Bahn auch im dunkeln gut zu erkennen und das Einsetzen gelingt dank der UV-beleuchteten Slots treffsicher.
Die Folie ist fix und fertig mit Selbstkleber beschichtet und dann auch nur 0,07 mm stark.

Hier geht’s zur Galerie vom Holzbahnring

First time proxy builds

2010-09-08T03:30:09+00:00

So yer thinking that this proxy racin’ gig looks like a lotta fun and, hey, how hard can it be to put a toy car together? Well, if like me, it’s your first time building a proxy racer, hard enough that I did some sweating getting my car out the door. So maybe the lessons learned in my missteps can be of use to other first timers contemplating building a proxy entry.

My car was built for the Vintage Race Across America (VRAA), a proxy for 1/32 scale 1.5 liter formula one cars from 1961 to 1965; some of the points in this post will be specific to that series, but most are pretty universal.

Let me start off by strongly recommending that you read Bert Levy’s book, The Fabulous Trashwagon (which means of course you need to read the whole Last Open Road series). Besides being a great read about racin’ and wrenchin’ and such, it contains some very real and profound information regarding building any racing car, regardless of size. To paraphrase Spud’s sage advice: it’s ten times harder to build your own car than to race prep one that somebody has already built; it’ll take you ten times as long and cost ten times as much as you thought it would. Always.

Which brings us to my first mistake: even though I have been involved various forms of competition for most of my adult life and thus knew Spud’s words to be the absolute truth (if a little conservative in his estimates), what did I pick to enter? Why a scratchbuilt of course!

A useful observation about VRAA vehicles. The cars are very small. Let me say that again; THE CARS ARE VERY SMALL! These tiny little quart and a half pencils barely have any room to squeeze in the components needed to make a race car. This fact will bite you so many times you will feel like a capybara swimming in the Amazon during a piranha feeding frenzy. Oh, and just to make it even more “interesting”, VRAA cars are judged on appearance, meaning you need to shoehorn in a driver, steering wheel, instrumentation, suspension linkage, exhaust, gearbox, … This is the point where you may want to consider entering a series with more relaxed size and detail criteria, such as The Last Open Road (TLOR) proxy.

So let’s do a walkthrough of my build and see where I managed to do something right and where I went astray:

Step 1 - Planning

I read the forums (repeatedly and in depth) for specs on the previous top contenders and build advice. This gave me an idea of things like what parts such as tires, wheels, and guides people use and what gear ratios might work. Which I then promptly negated by picking a car that uses a 13” scale wheel, which only became available this year and hence no one has tried them or the tires they use. It’s the correct scale wheel for the car but probably not a real smart move for a first build. Ended up making my own inserts and cutting down a set of tires to meet the maximum width requirement:

KISS *** NO DEAMON TWEAKS *** (Keep It Simple, Stupid). Man this one is hard to follow. I kept telling myself that I would build the most simple, straightforward car possible; it’s my first build in a long, long time so I can’t get distracted by anything that isn’t fundamental. But that little devil on my shoulder kept whispering in my ear “just this one little mod will make it soooo much faster, better handling, cooler looking…” So I ended up with a droop frame, independently turning front wheels, a sprung guide, and parts of a front suspension grafted in from a modern F1 car. None of which qualify under the KISS principle. Hopefully most these will work OK, but they cost me quite a bit of build time and may reduce reliability. I should have ignored the temptation and stuck to the simplest build possible (NEXT year I can get fancy :)).

Step 2 – Frame and running gear

Frame: like I said, it’s a droop frame, with a bend in the middle to lower the front end of the motor to the minimum allowed height, resulting in a lower center of gravity. The cross piece behind the motor was added to increase the rigidity of the rear bracket, something I felt was necessary and worth the complexity in fabrication and slight cost in weight.

Jigs and alignment – one thing I did do right was fab up a simple jig to make sure everything got assembled with the proper spacing and alignment. It’s just a block of oak with slots milled (with a dremel and cross feed vice) at the correct spacing and depth to hold the appropriately sized axle tubes (1/8 front, 3/16 rear). Everything press fits in place and can then be soldered together.

After the frame was assembled, the rear bushings were aligned with an SCC bearing alignment kit and soldered in place. These are slick – don’t even think about not using one, just get it.

Rear bracket – here’s a real good example of the tight fit required in these cars:

Some of the fallout from the space impediments pictured above: Mounted the motor – dang! screws are too long and locked up the armature; had to be trimmed half a millimeter shorter. Put on the crown gear – won’t fit, it hits the head of the mounting screw; grind the head of the mount screws flat (while still leaving enough slot to screw it in). Try to slide on the pinion – not a hope, major interference with the crown hub; lathe off as much of the hub as possible. Try pinion again – close but still interferes at the tip; chamfer the tip of the pinion back 45 degrees. Slide on the body – crown rubs the inside of the engine cover; dremel the shell as thin as I dare. Note the clearance between the pinion and the mount screw head – 9 tooth just fits, sure glad I didn’t try the 10. And see that large clearance between the crown and the rear frame loop? That’s a screw up, there should only be a few thousandth of an inch there. By building the frame hanging out behind the gear instead of tucked in under it, the frame won’t fit into the body opening, so the body has to ride on top of the frame, about a millimeter higher than it should.
So that’s 7 potential sites of interference in just one location. Like I said, the small space available in these cars will bite you.

Front bracket – a classic example of how I didn’t keep it simple (like I should have:

Last year most builders with a full width 1/8 brass tube front axle carrier; simple, strong, combines bushing and spacer into one piece. But of course instead of doing the intelligent thing and using this method, I had to listen to the little voice saying “you need a cool looking front end”. The brass front bracket appeared a little fragile so I still soldered in a 1/8 tube cross piece to add strength and act as a bushing, but it’s only the width of the bracket. In my VERY limited spare bits bin, I have a couple of Scalextric late model formula car front suspension pieces, which have upper arms and steering links that look reasonably close to what Honda used in the RA271, so I decided to use these for looks and to act as axle locators. They are, of course way too wide, so I cut out the center link and the lower A arm and bonded the pieces to the bracket with body panel epoxy (the stuff that most modern 1/1 cars are glued together with). Hope it lasts the series.

The guide is an Ninco suspension type, modified with a screw top. Why on earth did I go with a suspension guide when nobody else has??! That little voice again – it seemed like such a good idea, as it eliminates the problem of having to shim the guide to the proper depth. Yeah, if it doesn’t bind, which mine does, and despite exhaustive investigation couldn’t find where it was hanging up. Had no time to refit with a better solution, so off it went and I’ll know better next year.

Step 3 Body and Detailing

Body mount – Probably my biggest mistake in building this car was not finalizing and fitting the body mount system at the earliest time possible. I had the plan for the body mount using a foam block and blind nut, but didn’t build it until the last step. Instead I just let the body rest on the frame all during testing and detailing. BAD move! Two main reasons:

In the mad rush to finish, had to hack up the planned body mount so that it ended up not fitting or being fastened to the body shell as well as it should have;
detail work ended up interfering with the fit of the body mount and got a bit messed up during the fitting process.

Detailing – this is the BIG time eater in a VRAA entry. Taking a look at past entries, the overall amount and quality of detailing has increased a lot as the series has matured. The detail work on my car took several times more effort than assembling and testing the running gear. You have to decide on the level of detailing you are going to do, based on cost (in time, effort and stress) vs payback (points and impressing your peers). If you do not have a lot of scratchbuilding experience AND skill (I have neither), go with as many store bought bits and pieces as possible (driver, steering wheel, mirrors, exhaust, suspension, engine/gearbox, …

I did a few things right but made some major errors. The things I did right were getting a high quality Dave Jones body shell, carefully cutting the openings for the suspension and cockpit to fit the running gear and cockpit interior, and doing lots of research on the car (driver position, suspension, instruments, logos, numbers, etc.).

The screw ups:

Driver misfit! I got lucky in finding that my frame design mounted the motor far enough back to allow a full driver figure in the cockpit (not possible with many cars). Unfortunately I didn’t measure the driver kit I’d purchased before I tried to fit him in the cockpit. After several frustrating attempts that ended up with his head about a foot too high in the breeze and the steering wheel at his elbows, I got out the calipers, measured up the various body parts, and discovered that K&B must have used Wilt Chambelain as a model because my driver’s limbs were proportioned for somebody about 7 feet tall (I thought it might have been a mislabeled 1/24 figure, but the head and hands were 1/32 size, just the limbs and torso were waaay too long). So a lot of dremel and body putty plastic surgery was involved before everything fit as it should.
I opted to try to scratchbuild way too many parts; wheel inserts, exhaust, steering wheel, mirrors, instrument panel, tach (RA271 had a separate tach mounted on top of the instrument panel).

The exhaust system was particularly frustrating because the kit comes with one. Unfortunately, mine was made out of something more closely resembling cottage cheese than hi impact plastic. I swear it fell apart at the mere thought of trimming the flash with an X-acto knife. Second attempt was the scratchbuilder’s old standby, piano wire. Sadly, while it was possible to cut and bend the many tiny, tiny pieces needed, it proved impossibly difficult to keep all the springy bits of steel properly aligned while attempting to solder them into one piece. Third attempt was with 1/32 brass tubing. This resulted in a beautiful little piece of brass jewelry that looked great but proved way too wide to fit the exhaust opening in the body. Fourth time lucky; digging around through my electronics odds and sods bin I found some insulated wire the right diameter, bent it into shape and CA glued together. Viola! – sometimes Murphy has to let you win just so you’ll keep playing the game. Here’s the various exhausts I built:

Trying to do my own wheel inserts was much too ambitious for a first time build. Yes I have a lathe and the ability, and nobody makes an insert for a Honda RA271, but the time required was far out of proportion with the payback. In hindsight I should have just bought some D-Jag inserts – they are similar enough that only a true grognard (such as myself) would have known the difference and they would have looked better as I ended up not having the time to complete all the detailing I’d planned.

Unless you are REALLY lucky and/or wise in choosing the kit for your entry, you will need to scratchbuild at least some of the suspension components (although there is a serious case for a newbie just omitting whatever isn’t in the kit and taking the points hit – it can make your life a lot less complicated). Bending up the simplified suspension links for the RA271 was pretty straightforward, as was drilling the locating holes. Unfortunately, as previously mentioned, I fit the suspension before finalizing the body mount so I ended up with the rear linkage interfering with the back axle when trying to fit the body, resulting in a lot of blue air, wear and tear on the paintjob and some bent up detailing to be fixed.

So there it is, my tale of travails building my first proxy entry. Doubtless wiser heads than mine will have comments to improve on and add to the thoughts here, so comment away.

Bottom line: it was a lot of fun and I learned a great deal. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat. Will I be smarter next time and follow all my advice? Sure, you becha :nod::p.

cheers
Scott

FS : Track Lighting and Neon Signs

2010-09-08T02:53:33+00:00

hi gang

prices do not include shipping costs - it won't be much, these items are fairly small
Paypal please .. my account name is : pjnewman@telus.net

cheers .. pete :canada:

Street Lamps
as shown .. 12V .. Model Power O-O27 Scale (see tape measure) Handcrafted Brass Lamp Posts .. thats what the package says .. painted grey .. come with really nice, chromed lamp covers and long wires

i have three loose singles - $5US each - and two loose doubles - $7.50US each
opened but never used

i also have three packs of three singles, and four packs of two doubles, alll still brand new .. $18US per package

next are a pair of spotlight towers .. these are pretty spectacular (IMHO) .. the individual spots can be turned in any direction .. never used .. $15US each

OverDrive Light Kits
Scenery Light Kit XS3 .. intended for houses or tunnels these feature four lights on a strip .. with instructions .. $12US each

Xenon Car Light Kit XK1 .. front and rear lights .. with instructions .. i have two of them .. $12US each

Neon Signs
made by Miller Industries these sell out quickly when introduced .. most are railroad oriented, but a few are about cars

Shell Sign .. the Shell part measures about 4 3/4" X 4 3/4" .. the whole sigm is about 8 inches tall .. it comes as a set of parts - the battery case (3 AAAs), the electrnic board, the sign and a set of etched steel brackets to stand it all up with .. also included is a converter that drops standard track power (up to 17V) to the required 4.5V, eliminating the need for those pesky AAAs .. the board has the on/off switch and a button so the flashing sequence of the sign can be changed - more than 40 different variations .. everything is BNIB and has neer been used .. a $110+ value, if you could find the sign anymore .. asking $80US OBO

i also have a second, a Goodyear sign, smaller than the other - it is about 5" X 3" in total, the Goodyear part is about 2" tall .. it has all of the same workings as the Shell sign, without the converter and a smaller set of brackets .. i had mounted this sign to the top of a Scalex Sport Control Tower, and tried it out a few times - it is now unattached .. needless to say, in the dark, it is pretty cool .. asking $50US OBO

RaceManagerX now available

2010-09-08T00:10:21+00:00

The software is now available for download and purchase from www.132slotcar.us with other dealers to follow.

Follow the link in the store to download a demo version which is limited to 10 laps.
If you decide to purchase, just return to the store to make the purchase. A license key will be emailed to you within 24 hours. The license key will remove the 10 lap limit.

Any support questions should be directed to me via the ScaleSlots web site email link.

Enjoy...

Dale

Very sad News.

2010-09-07T23:35:21+00:00

I have just heard very very sad News from England.

John Robinson from MRRC has passed away.

John had been fighting Cancer for a while now, this was kept from the public as this was his wishes.

Sadly on Sunday John lost the fight, I am deeply saddened by this News, I considered John a friend in this Industry.

I tried to find a photo, but all I had were images of his great little cars, sadly none of him.

This one is one John wanted to get done so badly, but many things got in the way. I will tell the story later but this is one I hope can be produced in John's memory.

Rest in Peace John, this hobby is worse for your passing, you were a great guy.

I will miss you.

Thanks for the Mini

2010-09-07T23:35:20+00:00

I forgot who I got the BMW Mini from (CRS at its worst), but it arrived today in perfect shape. My thanks for the careful packaging.

Scott

1/32 track problem

2010-09-07T22:59:24+00:00

one of the memebers on here donated a ton of scx track to me. and i thank you. you know who you are. but the only draw back is he copper taped the rails. man is it a son of a b#@*$ to get off. but once off the glue is strong enough to hold two planets together. lol. My ? is is there a a solution to remove the glue with. heres what i tryed already. hoppes #9 gun bore cleaner worked the best so far. wd-40, goff off, acetone and a heat gun not so good results. if you know an easy way to get off the glue please let me know. thank you Nick.

A passing

2010-09-07T22:00:14+00:00

Alan Smith of Slot Car Illustrated has reported that John Robinson from MRRC has passed away. This is a really sad day. I had the pleasure of meeting John in 2009 at Toyfair in Germany and he was a wonderful person. He loved slots and it was great to have met him and talked with him via email for years.

You will be missed John.

Dave K
Slot Car News

August Races Results

2010-09-07T20:29:41+00:00

Here are the results from the first 2 races in August...I do have the finishing order and fastest lap, but only got a partial total lap amount.

Race #1 - Razorback Speedway - 14' x 6' 3-lane tri oval MDF 13.8V

1. # 24 - 2.867 - Thunderbolt - Fast Lap

2. # 9 - 2.978 - elvinator

3. #26 - 2.954 - WPSoko1

4. #00 - 2.982 - Maineiac Slotracer

5. #14 - 3.071 - The Old Jaybird

6. # 9 - 2.920 - Flying_trasgu

7. # 3 - 3.165 - aww4

8. # 5 - 3.104 - forzacavallino

9. #43 - 3.001 - Buspor63

10. #88 - 3.295 - Crazywhenert

11. #88 - 3.278 - 34ever1

12. #97 - 3.363 - Redlynr

13. #29 - 3.012 - The Old Jaybird

14. #88 - 3.290 - arroldn

15. #88 - 3.354 - Bopalou

16. #21 - 3.345 - mmmoose1

17. # 7 - 3.365 - DMHJR

18. #11 - 3.739 - SpiritRacer

19. #49 - 3.433 - Nick49

DNS - #9 - Da Vols - gear problem / #43 - arroldn - chassis problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Race #2 - Martinsville Raceway - 24' x 6' banked 4-lane oval MDF 12V

1. #29 - 2.909 - The Old Jaybird - Fast Lap

2. #26 - 2.914 - WPSoko1

3. # 7 - 2.916 - DMHJR

4. # 9 - 2.937 - elvinator

5. #88 - 3.017 - Crazywhenert

6. # 5 - 2.897 - Forzacavallino

7. #9 - 2.923 - Flying _trasgu

8. #00 - 2.967 - Maineiac Slot racer

9. #21 - 3.049 - mmmoose1

10. #88 - 3.059 - 34ever1

11. # 3 - 3.141 - aww4

12. #97 - 3.249 - Redlynr

13. #24 - 3.252 - Thunderbolt

14. #43 - 3.156 - Buspor63

15. #88 - 3.272 - arroldn

16. #11 - 3.292 - SpiritRacer

17. #48 - 3.283 - Nick49

DNS: #9 - Da Vols - gear problem / #43 - arroldn - chassis problem / #88 - Bopalou - tire problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm awaiting the results from the 3rd race - I understand the #88's tire problem has been resolved and both the #9 & #43 will try to be repaired. I hope to get more info on these races - I do know that all were timed races run in all lanes. I will update the points standings as soon as I get the the results of this last race.

I do apologize for this delay...and hopefully this will be the last problem that'll arise.

Da Vol - Bruce

FALLECE JOHN ROBINSON (MRRC)

2010-09-07T19:05:00+00:00

Hace tan sólo unos minutos Iván (IBB Autoracing) me ha comunicado que John Robinson, propietario de MRRC ha fallecido.

Es posible que MRRC sea una de las marcas más antiguas del mundo del slot, fundada por Alban Adams junto a Bert Walshaw y Henri Baigent, quien originó -1947- con sus diseños la marca que lleva más de sesenta años diseñando y fabricando ilusiones (Página tributo a Henri Baigent - click -).

En 1954, bajo la dirección de Adams MRRC fabricó en Boscombe (Bournemouth) sus primeros cuarenta vehículos. Model Road Racing Cars, o MRRC, se negaba a desaparecer, y pese a cambiar de manos la marca sobrevivió gracias al empeño de Adams, quien la re-adquirió en su peor momento a principios de los '80. Y sobrevive sin perder su esencia gracias a Adams y de un aficionado de verdad, alguien a quien hoy quisiera dedicarle estas líneas, Mr. John Robinson, un gran aficionado que rescató a la compañía a finales de los ochenta.

Espero compartir en breve unas líneas y fotos de la última y fantástica novedad que adquirí de esta marca.

Señor Robinson, GRACIAS.

COCHE MAS SLOT 100

2010-09-07T19:04:00+00:00

La decoración como véis en las fotos

está hecha a base de las portadas

de la revista que hemos publicado.

No son todos iguales, ya que la portada

del techo va cambiando de la 1 a la 100,

como los dorsales, que van también

del 1 al 100, según la portada resaltada.

Este por ejemplo el coche con la portada 5

La carrocería es de resina, pintada por Maralic.

La edición consta de 99 coches, todos diferentes,

cambia el dorsal y su portada en el techo correspondiente.

Y además 15 coches con el dorsal 100 y portada nº 100

de Más Slot en el techo.

Ya hemos entregado los primeros 25 coches,

que nos acaba de entregar Paco Sastre de Maralic.

Si estás interesado en reservar una unidad, llámanos

o escríbenos lo antes posible, antes de que se agoten.

RallyClassics Series Saunier Duval: Recta final con nuevo formato en Calaf

2010-09-07T16:10:00+00:00

Tras el merecido descanso veraniego, el certamen de regularidad clásica en circuito RallyClassics Series Saunier Duval vuelve a la acción para celebrar la penúltima cita de la temporada, en esta ocasión desplazándose a Tarragona a la renovada pista de Calafat.

Será el 11 de septiembre y el encuentro contará con todos los alicientes de este campeonato: Bonitas y valiosas monturas, pilotos semiprofesionales que compiten con total fair play con los más amateurs y una jornada dividida en dos tandas de entrenamientos y dos mangas de carrera que erigirán a un nuevo ganador.

Hasta la fecha y tras muy buenas actuaciones parciales, el actual Campeón en título, José Luis Marcó (Porsche 911-T/88 puntos), domina la general, seguido de Albert García (Seat 124/2000 Gr. 2/72,5 puntos) y de los hermanos Josep y Pere Codorniu (Opel Manta-Saunier Duval/71 puntos).

A falta de tan sólo una prueba para bajar el telón del campeonato (Motorland Aragón, 16 de octubre), en esta penúltima cita el organizador adoptará un formato que afecta al tiempo en el que los pilotos podrán estar en pista:

Dispondrán de una hora de entrenamientos libres y una hora más para ensayos cronometrados de los que saldrá el tiempo de referencia que cada piloto elija para intentar repetirlo luego en carrera, giro tras giro, y optar así a ser el más regular.

Posteriormente, dos mangas de carrera de 90 minutos cada una. El cansancio, en especial para los participantes que compitan sin un segundo piloto, será uno de los factores a tener en cuenta, ya que entre una y otra manga de carrera sólo habrá media hora de inactividad, rompiendo estos 30 únicos minutos las tres horas de competición en pista, en una época del año aún calurosa.

Se prevé una numerosa inscripción, más de 48 coches y 68 pilotos están ya inscritos.

La clasificación está muy ajustada y aún está abierto el triunfo final. Hay que tener en cuenta que del primero al décimo clasificados hay una diferencia máxima de 38 puntos, y que en cada cita el ganador de cada manga puede acumular hasta 20 puntos, habiendo actualmente aún 80 puntos en juego, conformando así un campeonato totalmente abierto.

Programa horario de la 5ª cita de las RallyClassics Series en Calafat

Sábado, 11 de septiembre

10.00-11.00 horas: Entrenamientos libres (opcionales)
11.00-11.40 horas: Verificaciones y entrega de transponders
11.45 horas: Briefing
12.00-13.00 horas: Entrenamientos cronometrados
15.00-16.30 horas: 1ª manga de carrera
17.00-18.30 horas: 2ª manga de carrera
18.50 horas: Entrega de premios

El Circuito Calafat está situado en el centro de la Costa Dorada, en el Golfo de San Jordi, en la Urbanización Calafat, término municipal de l'Ametlla de Mar, comarca del Baix Ebre, provincia de Tarragona.

L'Ametlla de Mar, a 10 minutos del circuito, es un atractivo pueblo marinero donde se puede disfrutar de la mejor comida mediterránea y del arte tradicional de la pesca.

Coche conmemorativo Más Slot nº 100

2010-09-07T15:29:00+00:00

La decoración como véis en las fotos

está hecha a base de las portadas

de la revista que hemos publicado.

No son todos iguales, ya que la portada

del techo va cambiando de la 1 a la 100,

como los dorsales, que van también

del 1 al 100, según la portada resaltada.

Este por ejemplo el coche con la portada 5

La carrocería es de resina, pintada por Maralic.

La edición consta de 99 coches, todos diferentes,

cambia el dorsal y su portada en el techo correspondiente.

Y además 15 coches con el dorsal 100 y portada nº 100

de Más Slot en el techo.

Ya hemos entregado los primeros 25 coches,

que nos acaba de entregar Paco Sastre de Maralic.

Si estás interesado en reservar una unidad, llámanos

o escríbenos lo antes posible, antes de que se agoten.

If the Ninco Audi GT3 Billstein comes with dark glasses i will stop buying Ninco

2010-09-07T15:19:49+00:00

Hi community.

I read on a page of a german seller, that the Billstein Audi 50553 will be a version of the proraceseries of Ninco.:confused:

See here: http://www.slotfun.de/1/32-Fahrzeuge...ce::11993.html

Ninco produces all the cars of the proraceseries with this ugly dark glasses.:frusty:

The Billsteincar is a beauty, but with dark glasses it is a big dissapointment for me.:sorry:

Any hope that we will see it with normal glasses?

+R Models HO Slot Car

2010-09-07T13:26:03+00:00

+R Models HO Slot Car

Ryotaro Endo, der Kopf hinter +R Models ist ein bekannter Hersteller von schönen Resin-Bodies klassischer Le Mans Modelle, darunter z.B. auch der Matra 650/660 oder der Alfa Romeo T33.

Link: http://rmodelshoslot.jimdo.com/

Carrera Track Sections FS

2010-09-07T12:18:35+00:00

I have gone wood and so have a lot of plastic Carrera track sections for sale. I bought three different sets and have used most of it in the past but it is all in good shape.

I will have to get an inventory and some pictures but I want to start out just to see if there is any interest. I am willing to sell all of it or part.

Some of the sections include

two up/down curve bridge sections
banked curve
wide curve (outside two lanes of four lane)
standard curves and straights
locks and red "pins"

4 IR controllers

I DO NOT have any power sections, or cars.

Jim D

Oasis

2010-09-07T10:01:44+00:00

Cela n'a aucun rapport avec le slot, mais ça me plait bien !

The cutaway drawing and its artists

2010-09-07T10:01:44+00:00

Si vous avez du courage, voila 120 pages de coupes, de dessin d'artiste, de blue print etc...
-> http://forums.autosport.com/lofiversion/index.php/t84751-0.html

Could be, might be, maybe, my entry....

2010-09-07T09:13:30+00:00

It runs.

However step 157 to 182 on the instruction sheet still have to be done to complete the car but it is showing promise.

So....... it might be my entry,only might be?????

regards

Deux nouvelles décorations pour la Subaru avant Slot

2010-09-07T09:04:05+00:00

SUSQUEHANNOCK TRAIL RALLY (STPR) 2008. -
Bientôt en magasins.

Les même

Scalextric - Porsche 911 GT3R: A-Ha livery

2010-09-07T08:57:26+00:00

PORSCHE 911 GT3R A-HA No.33

Reference No: C3084
Type: Single car, crystal box
Class: Endurance
Availability: August 2010

History
Driven by Matthew Marsh, Sunday 9th May, 2004. A-Ha Racing won their first ever motor racing trophy when Matthew Marsh finished second in the second round of the Porsche Carrera Cup Asia. It was a dramatic day of racing. In the first race Matthew took second place in the first corner by overtaking Charles Kwan and Rizal Ramli. A lap later he overtook Brian Saunders for the lead and began to pull away. Just a lap later it all went wrong when Matthew lost control of the car and spun down to fifth place. He fought back and finished second.

Features
Magnatraction with two magnet positions for driver choice. Front and rear lights. Side-winder motor. Quick-change braid plate.

L'Alpine A310 Avant slot sur nos pistes...

2010-09-07T07:27:00+00:00

Elle avait été annoncée au salon de Nuremberg, la voici qui foule enfin nos pistes. Voici la petite (!) A310 vue par Avant Slot.

Les formes sont fidèles et la décoration bien réalisée. Carrosserie en plastique de bonne qualité, peinture brillante ou mat selon les parties, cela donne une jolie voiture qui prend bien la lumière. La seule observation que l'on peut faire concerne la taille, qui à côté d'une a110 SCX ou même une Mégane SCX parait être dd'une échelle légèrement différente (1/30?).

Le chassis est le même que pour les autres rallyes de Avant Slot, et si les "pro" apprécieront les différents réglages, les moins expérimentés seront bien inspirés de ne pas toucher les vis de règlage, en particulier celles du train avant afin de ne pas vriller le chassis qui se montre particulièrement fragile de ce point de vue là.

pour finir, la fiche de test remplie par son propriétaire :

Marque :AVANT SLOT

Constructeur :RENAULT

Modèle : ALPINE A310

Décoration :CALBERSON

Pilote :DELAVAL

Propriétaire : SEGAUD Denis

Esthétique :

Positif : Voiture très bien fini.

Négatif : La plaque d’immatriculation avant peinte sur une grille. L’arrière n’est pas asser haut, on dirait qu’ils l’ont trop chargé.

Conduite :

Voiture très agréable à conduire. Le moteur est puissant on peut facilement la mettre en glisse quand on le souhaite. Cependant il faut bien régler le guide à débatement car si il est trop élevé la voiture sort facilement.

Sur la piste, la voiture est joueuse, avec un moteur vif et puissant qui propulse la belle dans de merveilleux travers... Pour un peu on se prendrait pour le Grizzli!

Merci à Denis et Stéphane.

Slotlandia 2010

2010-09-07T07:19:49+00:00

Ya estamos en la décima edición de la más grande exposición italiana dedicada al slot, dónde el público es el protagonista.

En esta ocasión las instalaciones contarán con las siguientes pistas:

Pista 1:24 6 carriles
Pista de plástico de 8 carriles
Pista de 6 carriles Oxigen Digital
Pista Carrera Digital
Pista Superslot
Pista de Rally Scalextric
Tramos de Rally
Pista Raid
Pista de prueba NSR
Pista Ninco

Las inscripciones ya están abiertas...

Este es el programa:

Viernes
Entrenamientos libres en todas las vías
Desafío GT Superslot
1:32 Rally
Carrera Digital

Sábado
Challenge Porsche GT 3 1:24 Scaleauto (Sprint)
Slot.it Endurance Grupo C (Reglamento del Campeonato de Europa - Registro: info@slotlandia.com)
Challenge GT Superslot
1:32 Rally
Carrera Digital

Domingo
Resistencia Plafit 1:24 - 2/3h
Copa NSR Sprint - se proporciona coche (Será un nuevo coche que presentará NSR)
Challenge GT Superslot
1:32 Rally
Carrera Digital

Más información, cómo llegar, alojamiento, y video de la edición 2009 en www.slotlandia.it

Escuchar

Leer fonéticamente

Three Lane Lap Counter?

2010-09-07T04:12:09+00:00

Has anyone tried or know of a way to add a third set of sensors to a Carrera lap counter?

I hacked my two lane counter and installed it into the last routed track, but, I have my new three lane oval running now and wonder if I am going to be able to add one more lane to the counter I have.

I guess the PC unit does nothing to this end since it simply plugs into the counter.

It has been a while but if I remember correctly the stock system uses a set of sensors across the slot as the speed trap and one sensor to read the car transmitter. Why can't it just use the sensor on the car and leave out the slot sensors?

Any thoughts toward a solution would be greatly appreciated.

ps - as I proof this I wonder if/how you would count laps on a plastic four lane setup?

Jim D

All Entries Due By December 1, 2010

2010-09-07T01:14:02+00:00

Just as reminder to everyone entered in the 2011 CanAm Proxy I wanted to remind you all that your entries are due in Salem,Ct. by December 1st. In light of lasts years unfortunate loss of cars I have set up an official mailing address for all entries. We now have a P.O. Box at the local post office. They promises to work closely with me to ensure there will be no lost entries this year. As always I am sure some will need to use the UPS/FedEx method however that might be slightly more risky as daytime deliveries can sit outsde for long periods before we arrive home. Hopefully we can all use the P.O. Box for the added security and to ensure we all are on the startline for qualifying at Valley Brook.

CanAm 2011
c/o Raymond Metz
P.O. Box 2135
Salem, Ct. USA 06420

Any other method remains:
Ray Metz
99 Lake View Av.
Salem, Ct. USA 06420

Thanks,
Ray M. :canada: :USA:

All things considered....

2010-09-07T00:39:44+00:00

The minutiae of microns.

Making a slotcar run smoothly is a neverending pursuit of attention to detail.
There is ALWAYS another variable to consider.

Once the low hanging fruit of tuning has been picked,(trued tires, Chassis/body float, rigid front end, properly groomed braids, lube.)
The finishing touches can be like finding a needle in a haystak.

One thing I have been pursuing recently is the fit of close tolerence parts. Specifically bearings and axles.

Recently, while setting up a scaleauto toyota, I noticed the wheels and bearings were a little loose in comparison to other brand parts. So I got out my trusty starrett 0-1 mics. and did a little comparison.

Most 1/32 cars and performance parts use 3/32 (.09375) as the standard diameter for wheels, gears, axles and bearings. What I found is; Not all brands standards are the same.

In the first two photos It shows the scaleauto axle measuring @ .0933in.

In the next photos, it shows a Slotit axle measuring @ .09360in.

What does this mean?
The slotit axle fits the bearings much better with littlle to no slop.
The extra .0003in. dia. mean less clearence, which means less vibration and wear.
The bearings were measured with a .0940 -.0002 gauge pin and are very near spot on .0938in.

Quality gauge pins can be had for @ 2-3$ a piece on the internet. They come in standard lengths of 2in. and diameter increments of .0002in. and make an excellent choice for axles on slot cars when looking for that elusive tuning edge.

Prodrive MINI Countryman WRC

2010-09-06T23:41:55+00:00

I am wondering if scalextric will be doing the Prodrive MINI Contryman WRC that debuits next year. Scaly has the R50/R53 (2002-2006 MINI Cooper/Cooper S) and they also have the Classic Mini Rally cars of Paddy Hopkirk and other Monte Carlo Rally winning Mini Coopers.

It would only seem natural that they do the Prodrive MINI Contryman WRC.

Somebody has to have heard rumors...

Best Lane Slot Track...

2010-09-06T22:27:30+00:00

L'invention du BLST peut être considérée, à mon avis, comme l'innovation la plus marquante depuis l'invention du Slot Racing Digital.

Il s'agit d'un circuit routier électrique à plusieurs voitures comportant un système d'aiguillages automatiques permettant de doubler et de gérer[...]

F. Alonso y F. Masa según CARRERA

2010-09-06T22:26:04+00:00

Carrera nos ofrece dos circuitos (Analógico y Digital) bajo la denominación Ferrari Duell con los dos pilotos oficiales del equipo Ferrari F1

Analógico. Ref.- 25175

F. Alonso

F. Masa

Digital. Ref.- 30149

Info y fotos: web oficial

Layout direction comments

2010-09-06T22:14:50+00:00

Hi Everyone, I have my layout all planned and track has arrived for my 1:32/24 Carrera digital (Thanks Nomad Slot Racing). I would like some feedback on track direction. Do you think clockwise or counter clockwise. I will add lane changers and pits once I confirm the direction. Also will have one banked curve either on the top or bottom right. Any and all feedback is appreciated! Original thought was counter clockwise, but now I'm not sure, so let's hear what you guys think.

IROC LL T-chassis Groupings for sale

2010-09-06T22:08:38+00:00

I have various bodies with Dyno matched T chassis. Pick your body style. $25 dollars for 4 cars plus a rolling chassis. $5 shipping. If you want a particular body style order early because I have limited quantities of some.

Attached Images

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3 shrink wrapped Slot.its

2010-09-06T20:24:04+00:00

I'm starting to thin out my large stash of slot cars... My wife found them.. oh well.

These are all still shrink wrapped and never opened.

Slot.it Nissan R390 GT1 #22 LeMans 1997. A.Suzuki - R. Patrese - E. Van De Poek 100.00
Slot.it Porsche 962 Blaupunkt, Pink #9 115.00
Slot.it Porsche 956C LeMans 1986 "Mickey Mouse Babycresci" #9 110.00

Paypal only and shipping is included as long as it's within US lower 48

If you want all three, make me an offer.

Thanks for looking!

Sideways

Attached Images

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FS: Scalextric '70 Ford Mustang Boss 302 in RARE Grabber Blue! BNIB

2010-09-06T20:23:39+00:00

FS: Scalextric 1970 Ford Mustang Boss 302 in RARE Grabber Blue, Brand New in Box!
$125 Shipped within USA.

http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/m...%20Boss%20302/

Thanks for looking!

Alex

Attn: Jim heller.....

2010-09-06T19:51:41+00:00

Jim,
Your mailbox is full! Here's what would have went into it:

Sorry for not getting back quicker.... bad weekend.... kidney stones & all. I'll get the car out to you tomorrow, Tuesday the 7th. I'll get you tracking info as soon as I have it.

Thanks,
Ray

Help adjusting Monogram 275P

2010-09-06T19:25:31+00:00

I've been playing with the setup on my SCX / Scalextric Classic track this afternoon. Either too much magnet downforce or none at all without the magnets and just the weights. Problem is the chassis recess won't allow for much cardboard shims. Suggestions on making this better? I have a number of other Monogram / Revell cars with magnet setups that seem to work fine. I think they are the MRRC chassis though?

Thanks.

SLOTLANDIA 2010

2010-09-06T19:00:00+00:00

Hay dos eventos anuales que año tras año se están convirtiendo en referencia, el Campeonato de España en Igualada y SLOTLANDIA... (Para acceder a su página CLICK)..., pero SLOTLANDIA no sólo es competición..., es cada vez más la Feria del Slot más importante al Este de Igualada, tanto es así que entre otras cosas se presentarán sus nuevos coches a escala 1/24, una pista de madera de 6 carriles, las próximas unidades de la Pegaso y Mercedes Collection..., y cómo no, también estarán los coches de MSC en plástico y a escala 1/32 .

Pista 1:24 de seis carriles, Pista 8 carriles para competición 1:32, pista de Pista 6 carriles Oxigen Digital, Pista de Carrera Digital, Pista Superslot, Pista SCX Rally, Pistas de Rally, bienvenida en Italia de las Pistas de Raid, Pista de pruebas NSR, Pistas Ninco... ¿Otra vez los españoles coparemos las primeras posiciones en sus competiciones?

Programa de competición:

Viernes: Pruebas libres sobre todas las pistas: Challenge GT Superslot, Rally 1:32 y Carrera Digital.

Sábado: Challenge Porsche GT 3 1:24 Scaleauto (carrera sprint, ¿olvídate el coche?), Endurance Grupo C Slot.it (Reglemento Campeonato Europeo - Inscripciones: info@slotlandia.com), Challenge GT Superslot, Rally 1:32 y Carrera Digital

Domingo: Endurance Plafit 1:24 - 2/3h, Copa NSR carrera sprint - cochecitos de la organización (Porsche GT 3 que serán presentados en Slotlandia - Confidencial!!!), Challenge GT Superslot, Rally 1:32, Carrera Digital.

En la página de SLOTLANDIA (www.slotlandia.it) encontrarás toda la información, además de cómo llegar, hoteles..., y un vídeo de la edición 2009...

Salud

Trier Worlds

2010-09-06T18:32:11+00:00

Et bien les courses à Trier se sont bien passées. Mais suis rentrée vraiment très fatiguée.

L’objectif au départ était de faire une belle place au concours d’élégance avec la Porsche « Gordon » et le but fut atteint avec une deuxième place.

La course en elle-même fut très sympa, ces Porsche Scaleauto RTR (si on peut dire) sont vraiment très performante ! J’avoue ne pas avoir voulu « rouler trop vite » par peur d’abîmer la carrosserie ! Et le résultat est : retour ici avec une voiture presque comme neuve.

Le plat de résistance était tout de même la finale du championnat OEPS. Course qui prenait en plus une dimension vraiment mondiale avec la présence de pilotes venant d’Australie, du Canada et des USA.

Un grand merci à mon équipière qui a assuré des relais d’enfer, à toute l’équipe Sloefspeed pour leur soutien et leur aide en course, ainsi qu’au team R.I.C.H. pour leurs conseils d’avant course.

Dommage que la voiture a connu quelques petits soucis, l’arrière du châssis plié dans un crash lors du dernier segment de la section de nuit. Problème qui est réapparu après qu’un marshal l’ait laissé tomber à terre pendant la première course de la dernière section de jour. Bref, nous avons dut « assurer » pour rallier l’arrivée en vingtième position !

Les photos seront sur le Picasa lorsque j’aurais un peu récupéré (et oui, l’âge est là et la récup est plus lente qu’avant)

Modern LMP Slot Car Shootout

2010-09-06T17:52:22+00:00

I've long been a fan of American LeMans/IMSA racing. Aside from a few trips to Daytona when IMSA sanctioned the Rolex 24, I only got to see these cars race once a year at my local track Mosport. Unfortunately, aside from Petit LeMans at Road Atlanta I don't get to see many of the European prototypes race. That was – until I took up slot car racing as a hobby.

Over the last decade we have been blessed with a plethora of models from a variety of manufacturers of LeMans prototypes. What I set out to do is determine which was the quickest and best suited for some local racing series. To do this, I've reached into my collection and pulled out a cross section of sixteen different cars. I then glued and trued the same formulation of urethane tire to each car, removed the traction magnets, and then tried to set my best Q time on a local wood (22m) and plastic track. The lap times were averaged between the two tracks and the results along with my observations are presented here. It's worth noting that all the cars in this test were run in stock form (minus traction magnets). My goal was to provide home and club racers with a performance benchmark for some of the modern era LMP cars available to us.

Carrera Bentley EXP Speed 8 – 9.009s avg.

9.403s plastic / 8.614s wood / 90g mass / 0g downforce

When I first got into the hobby, Carrera was my go-to brand for magnet racing. The adjustable twin magnet chassis in several of their models and solid build made for excellent magnet racers. Once I started racing without traction magnets in place I started looking elsewhere: namely NINCO, Slot.it and Scaleauto for my fast rides. Sometimes, you can't always find what you're looking for in those other brands so you have to go with what's available. If it's the Bentley EXP Speed 8 then Carrera (aside from a boutique resin model) is the only game in town. This car is the heaviest in my test at 90g and also the slowest. This car lacks good brakes so each corner had to be approached with care otherwise it would deslot and go straight instead of turn in. Front tire rub is part of the problem here as well. A beautiful model but will need a lots of work to turn into a racer.

SCX Audi R8 – 8.902s avg.

9.203s plastic / 8.600s wood / 81g mass / 4g downforce

Audi has had quite a run of success with their R8 series of prototypes. Back in my magnet racing days the R8 was another go-to car. The adjustable traction magnet and light weight along with a motor that only seemed to go faster as the car wore in were the hallmarks of this model. Ditch the traction magnets and the car is still surprisingly good if underpowered. This car could be pushed in the corners though it was lacking in outright speed down the straights. A good starting point for a race car, but will need more power to improve its lap times.

Scalextric Cadillac 2000 LMP – 8.704s avg.

9.219s plastic / 8.188s wood / 75g mass / 2g downforce

This model is well known for raising the bar in terms of detail when it was first released. Not the best magnet car owing to the small button magnet. A few guys in my club have race tuned these cars and they are very competitive with the latest offereings from Slot.it and Scaleauto. Out of the box – not so much. The nose deslots easily in the corners and the guide can pop out if pushed. The chassis is on the fragile side so reinforcement and additional weight are definitely on order here. Not a car I'd like to change motors on frequently owing to the delicacy of the chassis, but definitely lots of tuning potential here.

SCX Dome S101 Judd – 8.674s avg.

9.219s plastic / 8.188s wood / 75g mass / 2g downforce

Another cool LeMans livery from SCX. The Dome differs from the Audi in terms of chassis design with its pivoting pod vs. the flat chassis on the Audi, though both models use a similar adjustable magnet design. Without the magnet in place the rocking motor pod can be a hindrance in terms of performance by allowing the tires to rub the inside of the fenders. I broke from my stock protocol by taping the pod to the chassis to limit movement. A slightly hotter motor than the R8 hustles this car around the track that much quicker. Super bright xenon LEDs light up the track if night racing is your thing. All four wheels were loose on their axles and needed to be glued before track testing. This is another model with lots of tuning potential. It's just not a race winner in non-magnet form out of the box.

Scalextric MG/Lola EX257 – 8.636s avg.

9.026s plastic / 8.322s wood / 69g mass, 0g downforce

Scalextric had obviously taken what they learned with their Cadillac and applied those lessons here. Beautiful detail, they replaced the button mag with a bar magnet which made this car the defacto standard among magnet racers. Ditch the mag and we're left with a decent performer. I've raced against these cars in a higher state of tune and they can be quick in non-magnet form. Chassis fragility is an issue that the tuner will have to deal with along with the pop out guid. Also, clearance over the crown gear can be an issue so backing off the screws that hold the rear cowl may be necessary. Not bad – but not great.

NINCO Acura ARX01b – 8.291s avg.

8.485s plastic / 8.096s wood / 81g mass / 8g downforce

Once I started racing non-magnet LMP cars, NINCO was my go-to brand. The BMW LMRs in my collection were only ever so-so magnet cars, but were really great performers without magnutz, especially with NSR King long can power in place of the NC2s those cars came with. The NC5 in the Acura is a decent mill but lacks the punch to perform at the top in my club. Still, a very drivable car as the average lap time demonstrates. In typical NINCO form, all the wheels were loose on the axle and the motor needed to be glued in. One big shunt and the motor will pop out possibly damaging the crown gear. With more motor and bracing between the motor and rear axle mounts this car will only get quicker. I've not yet tried the lightning version of this car: the lack of wheel inserts, odd axle sizing and brittle chassis keep me at bay.

Scalextric Porsche RS Spyder – 8.253s avg.

8.527s plastic / 7.978s wood / 77g mass / 2g downforce

I almost didn't test this car, but getting my *** handed to me by a heavily modded Scalextric Peugeot at my club had me reaching for it when it came time to select models for this review. I'm glad I took the time to glue and true a set of tires for it. Without magnets in place this car was a real blast to drive. The RS Spyder is quick down the straights even with the stock motor and has excellent handling in the corners. I bought another one of these used from a guy in my club so I think I know what my next LMP club racing project car will be…

Spirit Courage C65 – 8.193s avg.

8.297s plastic / 8.088s wood / 80g mass / 15g downforce

This is the first car in this review to feature a motor pod. Spirit provided access holes for front axle set screws on a chassis that came off the plinth fairly straight and flat. The SxXx long can motor has plenty of torque. If anything this car just needs some weight to settle it down. The Spirit Courage is another good mag-free performer out of the box. My local club's ace driver/builder had his eye on this one so maybe there's more to the Courage than meets the eye and my initial impressions?

Fly Racing Lola B98/10 – 8.179s avg.

8.480s plastic / 7.878s wood / 85g mass / 16g downforce

Surprisingly, Fly has managed to fit a long can motor under this short wheelbase low rear deck car. Unique plastic wheels with metal setscrew bosses come standard on this as does a lexan interior. A great handling car, especially on wood.

Avant Slot Peugeot 908 HDi FAP – 8.174s avg.

8.444s plastic / 7.904s wood / 82g mass / 30g downforce

These Avant Slot long can motors are monsters. They remind me of the King motors in terms of torque and power and really make the A/S cars get up and go. The funky chassis takes some fiddling to tune but seems like it has some potential. The guide and guide holders can be fragile so snap spins are something to watch out for when racing cars from this manufacturer. The standard plastic wheels needed to be glued on all the Avant Slot models I tested. The Avant Slot Peugeot is a great car with just a tire change.

Avant Slot Pescarolo – 7.898s avg.

8.095s plastic / 7.701s wood / 79g mass / 15g downforce

For whatever reason, Avant Slot decided the Pescarolo should have a chassis different from their Audi and Peugeot. It is equipped with adjustable front stub axles as opposed to the solid front axle on their other cars. It took some fiddling to keep the rear wheels from rubbing inside the fenders on this car. I ended up taping the motor pod to the chassis to keep that from happening. Still, lots of adjustability built into this chassis, and a very fast car out of the box with only a tire change – over a second a lap quicker than the Carrera Bentley on average. This is a really nicely detailed model of the Pescarolo to boot.

Avant Slot Audi R10 – 7.842s avg.

8.045s plastic / 7.638s wood / 82g mass, 13g downforce

Avant Slot has done the R10 justice with this car: it's good looking, fast, and like all Avant Slot models has plenty of adjustability and speed straight out of the box. I'd like to see Avant Slot up their game a little by including setscrew wheels. At their current price point that is still an affordable upgrade. The monster torque, great handling, and attractive paint and detail are all typical for Avant Slot. What's not to like?

Sloting Plus Reynard 2KQ – 7.812s avg.

7.876s plastic / 7.747s wood / 80g mass / 14g downforce

This is the first RTR car offered from aftermarket tuning parts specialist Sloting Plus. The only issues I had out of the box was that the profile of the stock tires was too high which caused them to rub inside the fenders. This was easily solved since a tire change was part of this test, and the lower profile ex-Radical rear tires fit perfectly on the Sloting Plus Reynard's fronts. Other than that, it's all good: setscrew wheels on all four corners, setscrews anglewinder gears, and multiple adjustment points on the chassis. You pay a little extra for this car but it is worth it. Glue and true your favourite tires and go racing.

Scaleauto Radical SR9 – 7.750 avg.

7.984s plastic / 7.515s wood / 82g mass / 6g downforce

I club raced a Scaleauto Toyota for two years so I had high expectation of this model. While I was not disappointed with the on track performance or the adjustability built into this chassis, I was surprised to see plastic press on wheels on a car at this price point. A solid racer out of the box that only needs minor upgrades for club racing duty.

Slot.it Audi R8C RAW – 7.742s avg.

7.838s plastic / 7.646s wood / 78g mass / 33g downforce

I've been a big fan of Slot.it cars since their first Audi R8C release. This car is miles ahead of their early models. I've used the fully decorated 1999 LeMans #9 livery from their most recent release on the RAW chassis. The early bodies don't fit over the anglewinder drivetrain and I didn't feel like painting up the orange body so it's a bit of an expensive upgrade. Still, this car is super fast right out of the box and one of the fastest in my collection. The RAW comes with multiple spur gears, setscrew rear wheels, and a lexan interior to really lighten things up. Even with the stock injection molded interior this car almost topped the timesheets. The Slot.it Audi is a pricey car but worth it in terms of how well it performs on the track. Still, it would be nice to see Slot.it produce a car that is modeled on something from this millennium, let alone this decade as the R8C body is getting a little long in the tooth. I only mention this since my club's racing series along with some proxy races have a ten year cutoff which this '99 LeMans entrant has passed.

SCX Audi R8 Pro – 7.599s avg.

7.911s plastic / 7.286s wood / 89g mass / 18g downforce

I have to admit that this car is not totally stock. I swapped out the Pro Speed motor on my early release model for an RX4H which is now standard issue on the Pro Audis. Aside from the motor swap and a change to club spec urethane tires, I removed the mechanical brake mechanism that also comes standard. Otherwise: stock chassis, motor, gears, wheels, and axles. The results: this car is a rocket! Light bodywork, decent spec components, and the hot 25k motor really hustle this car around the track. Until I get one of the other cars on this list running faster, the SCX Audi R8 Pro is my go-to club racer.

Thank-you to Mini Grid in Toronto for the use of their 22.1m Scalextric Sport test track, and to Super Rat for the use of his superb 21.7m 'Ring test track and the urethane club tires.

-Van LaPointe